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What is Pulukisi?
- Airavata, the Vehicle of Lord Indra: Pulukisi represents Airavata, the majestic white elephant that serves as the divine vehicle (vahana) of Lord Indra, the King of Heaven in Hindu and Buddhist mythology . In the Newari language, “kisi” means elephant .
- A Cultural Performance: It is not a real elephant but a performance art where two dancers typically get inside a structure made of bamboo mats and fabric to mimic the form of an elephant, dancing through the streets to traditional music .
The Stories and Legends Behind the Dance
The Pulukisi dance is associated with different legends depending on the festival and location.
For Indra Jatra in Kathmandu: The Search for a Captured God
- The Myth: The most popular legend states that Lord Indra once descended to Earth in disguise to find a specific flower for his mother’s ritual. He was caught stealing the flower by the local king and tied up in the city square .
- The Performance: Distraught without its master, Indra’s white elephant, Pulukisi, rampages through the streets of Kathmandu in a desperate search for him . The performance is a reenactment of this search. The festival concludes when Indra’s mother, Vasundhara, descends with Airavata, creates a mist, and frees her son .
For the Nagdesh Festival: The Crowning of a King
- The Myth: In the town of Nagdesh in Bhaktapur, the dance is linked to the Shri Swasthani Vrat Katha, a popular Hindu scripture. According to this story, a character named Nawaraj, the son of Gomayaju, was divinely chosen to be king when an elephant (Pulukisi) crowned him with a garland of flowers .
- The Performance: This festival reenacts the crowning. A local man, playing the role of King Nawaraj, rides on the Pulukisi. The procession begins after bringing the deity Lord Madhav Narayan to the Siddhi Ganesh Temple and performing rituals. The Pulukisi then carries the “king” through the town to the rhythm of traditional music .
🗓️ When and Where to See Pulukisi
Pulukisi is performed during specific festivals in different locations within the Kathmandu Valley.
✨ How the Performance Unfolds
- The “Elephant”: The Pulukisi is constructed anew each year by local communities, using bamboo, mats, and cloth, often dyed blue to represent the divine white elephant .
- The Performers: Two people usually coordinate the movements inside the elephant, making it dance, sway, and appear playful or mischievous .
- The Procession: The Pulukisi is accompanied by a lively troupe of musicians playing traditional Newari instruments like the dhime drum, bhusya (cymbals), and bells, creating a festive atmosphere .
- Local Beliefs: During the procession in Bhaktapur, it is believed that anyone touched by the Pulukisi’s trunk might face bad luck, so people often playfully run away from it .
🍽️ Pulukisi and the Festive Feast
Pulukisi is so central to Indra Jatra that revellers have a special chant. They sing, “Lachaku Wheka Samyabaji Wola Wola Pulukisi,” which translates to “Give me samay baji with a piece of meat, the elephant is coming” . Samay baji is a traditional Newari platter of beaten rice, ginger, soybeans, and other items, considered a feast fit for the gods during this festival .
I hope this gives you a clear and detailed picture of what Pulukisi is. Would you like to know more about other traditional dances of the Kathmandu Valley?